Grass Protection Mesh (Standard Grade)
- Grass Protection Mat for Turf Reinforcement
- Model: 64313308 / GP-100
- Square Feet: 670
- Mesh Size: 1.375" x 1.25"
- Volume Pricing Available (see below)
- Allow 7-10 Business Days for Delivery
- View Pricing and Order Online Below ▼
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Vehicle-Grade Grass Protection
Tenax provides durable extruded polymer grids for protecting and reinforcing grassed areas. A multitude of parking areas can benefit from these products: overspill car parking, grassed access routes, footpaths, buggy/cart paths, r.v. parks, parkland areas and areas used by light aircraft. Additionally, these versatile products can be used to prevent dogs from damaging backyards, horses and deer from rubbing the bark off trees, as an alternative to the wire baskets used to wrap tree root systems, or as a breathable barrier when stacking hay or straw. Tenax grass protection mesh is a tough extruded polymer grid for reinforcing grassed areas used by vehicles and pedestrians. For best results, the mesh should be installed in the Spring so the grass will grow quickly through the grid's apertures (openings) and form a root mass around the mesh filaments. The area will soon resume its natural appearance and provide a stable surface that will withstand the weight of lightweight vehicles and heavy pedestrian use. Grass protection mesh also works as a tree wrap to prevent horse and deer from damaging trees or as grass protection in yards used by multiple or large dogs. Some companies are now using it to manufacture a cost-effective alternative to wire frame tree baskets to wrap the root system and allow roots room to breath and grow.
Overspill Car Parking | Grassed Access Routes | Footpaths - Buggy / Cart Paths | Parking and Turning Circles for Light Aircraft | R.V. Parks | Lawns Used for Parking Cars, Boats and Trailers | Grassed Verges in Urban and Parkland Areas(Some applications may require additional soil stabilization such as a geogrid.)
Cut the grass short and ensure the area is as level as possible and clear of any protruding stones or other debris. Fill in any hollows with a mixture of fine topsoil and sharp sand. Unroll the Grass Protection Mesh over the area to be protected and secure the initial end with
Tenax turf staples. While under tension, place additional pins every yard on each side and then secure the opposite end of the roll. If the area to be protected is wider than 6.7 feet, butt the edges of the rolls together and secure by placing a pin across each edge. Finally, pin down any area of the mesh that is not in contact with the grass. If the mesh is laid over bare earth, apply a suitable grass seed and fertilizer and dress at approximately 6 lbs / 100 sf (or as specified). Vehicles and pedestrians should be kept off the area until the grass has grown at least 1 inch and has been mowed twice with the blade height set high. The area can then be rolled if required.
Note: If the Turf Protection Mesh is being laid over clay soil, a suitable drainage system should be installed. If the ground is particularly soft, please seek the advice of a professional. Turf Protection Mesh does not solve drainage problems.
Tenax Turf Staples are recommended for the installation of the Grass Protection Mesh
Creating A New Lawn From Sod
Creating a new lawn from Sod can give you an attractive, healthy lawn and you can get it done from autumn to early spring when the weather is ideal for planting. In this article, we will go over choosing the right Sod, how to prepare the soil, and how to lay down your new lawn.
Why Should I Use Sod?
Laying Sod is the quickest way to get a great lawn in record time. Sod is an excellent choice if you cannot stay off your lawn for an extended period of time and must have access sooner than later. If you have children and pets, there is no way you will be able to keep them off your lawn for more than a day or so.
Even though using Sod to get a great-looking lawn, there are a few things you must address first. Preparing the soil comes first and is just as important as sowing lawn seed. Sod is somewhat more expensive than seed but you must lay it within a few days after it's been delivered so time is of the utmost importance.
When Should I Lay Sod?
The best time to lay Sod is mid-autumn or any time between mid-autumn and early spring. The only thing you must take into consideration is the condition of the soil which should not be too wet or frozen. During spring and autumn, you should mow as little as you possibly can so the newly laid Sod will be undisturbed for several weeks to help it take root If you choose early spring, keep in mind, you will have to water more often during dry spells over the summer. Mowing and dry spells before the new Sod has taken root will stress out the grass and rooting will take longer to establish.
You should avoid laying Sod from mid-spring to early autumn as the grass will have a hard time establishing and will require repeated watering.
Soil preparation is very important to establish a successful lawn. Pay close attention to clearing out weeds, loosening up any compacted soil, and leveling the ground.
Take Note- Before going out and purchasing the Sod or before it's delivered, make sure the soil preparation is finished.
The first step, remove all perennial weeds and their roots such as couch grass and bindweed. You can carry this out by hand or use a weedkiller. Do Not use a leftover weedkiller as it could stay in the soil preventing the Sod from becoming established. You could cover the area with cardboard or weed membrane but it will take more time.
Dig the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches or 20–25cm to prevent compaction.
Add plenty of well-rotted manure or another organic matter like garden compost to hold moisture in the soil, especially if you have sandy soil. Just be sure the manure is well-rotted as organic matter will continue to rot and shrink, leaving the surface soil uneven.
Step away and let the ground settle for at least a few days, ideally, six weeks or more.
Remove any weeds that have popped up. You can use a hoe or shovel to dig them out or use a weedkiller just not a leftover weedkiller.
Level and firm the surface by walking over the area several times and in different directions while using shuffling steps.
Rake in a general-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 70g per sq m (2oz per sq yd).
If you have discovered a section that is disturbed, like an old flower bed, over time the ground will probably sink forming a hollow spot. If you want all lawn areas to match, you can build that section up a little higher to compensate for the difference.
Selecting & Preparing The Sod
Sod is available at online suppliers and probably at your local home improvement center. They should be able to offer choices of grass to fit different locations including shady areas and high-quality Sod. You can also find native wild plants that are already established.
Before buying, measure the area of your lawn as well as the dimensions of the Sod pieces very carefully to ensure you will have enough.
Upon arrival, check the condition and quality of the Sod. There shouldn't be any weeds and the green color will be consistent. The Sod comes in various thicknesses but the thinner it is, the better it will root. 2cm (¾in) Sod roots are better than 7.5cm (3in) Sod. Upon delivery, all pieces should be the same width or you will have a problem laying them out without gaps.
Once delivered, the Sod should be laid out within 24 hours. If set aside for a few days or more, unroll the Sod, lay it out with the grass facing the light, then water it if conditions are dry. If you leave it unrolled, it can become discolored and the grass will be weak.
Some Sod is grown on a fine net or mesh. The Sod will be stronger and will stay intact when in transit. Unfortunately, this process can lead to problems including unnecessary plastic added to the environment. You are better off looking for Sod that does not have plastic netting. Check with the supplier beforehand. One option is wildflower Sod that is grown without a plastic base.
If you will be lifting the Sod on your own, use a spade or Soding iron. Make sure you choose good quality grass minus any weeds. Cut it at a depth of 2–5cm or ¾–1 inch. Trim each piece to a regular size and be consistent or it will be difficult to make the lawn level and avoid any gaps between the pieces. To start with, put each piece of cut Sod upside down in an adapted wooden box with the right depth and dimensions then cut off any extra soil.
Laying The Sod
Now that you have prepared the soil it's time to lay the Sod. Start at one side and work your way across or you can start at one corner of the site. As you will be dealing with bare soil, stand on boards so you won't leave footprints.
Lay the Sod pieces so the joints are staggered like bricks in a wall. Tightly push them together so there are no gaps. Make sure to check each piece to ensure they are level. Have a bucket of sandy soil on hand to add or remove soil when needed.
After the Sod is laid, gently firm it up using a lightweight roller or a homemade tamper you can make using flat wood attached to a broom handle.
Scatter a mixture of sand and soil or use garden compost onto the lawn and brush it into the joints. This filling will fill in any small gaps while helping the Sod to bond together and establish faster.
If there is no rain in the forecast water it thoroughly then leave the Sod undisturbed. The first few days are critical for developing roots.
If the weather is dry, you should water on a regular basis to keep the Sod continually moist and ensure the roots are fine. During certain dry periods such as mid to late summer, water every five to ten days. During other dry times, water during these dry periods every 2 weeks.
Make sure not to over-water, that can lead to shallow rooting and encourage coarse seed grasses like annual meadow grass.
Mow with the blades set high once the grass has reached 5cm or 2in.
In general, laying Sod will not have problems as long as you prepared the soil well and have kept it watered until the Sod is rooted into the underlying soil.
If you have difficult growing conditions such as shady areas, you should get a mix of grass species made for those conditions. If you have Sod that does not work with conditions like this, it will struggle to get established and will be difficult to keep in good shape.
If you want good quality Sod, you need to mow regularly and take care of regular spring and autumn maintenance.